While Germany may not necessarily be considered a fashion powerhouse when compared to the likes of its European counterparts in France and Italy, German-born designers have made distinct contributions to fashion, offering a range of aesthetic expressions that continue to influence the global stage. From the tailored precision of Tomas Maier to Jil Sander’s minimalist elegance, their work embodies sophistication and craftsmanship. Karl Lagerfeld — a fashion titan — bridged European traditions, leaving his mark on both ready-to-wear and haute couture at Chanel. Meanwhile, brands like Escada and Philipp Plein infuse boldness and opulence into their creations. Together, these designers highlight a spectrum of innovation, showcasing the enduring impact of German-born designers on the fashion industry. This design prowess unfolds in two radically different forms — minimalism and maximalism, both of which have deeply influenced market trends and consumer preferences, shaping not only style but also the economic landscape of luxury retail.
Minimalism: The Art of Restraint
One could argue that German minimalism in fashion finds its purest expression in the work of Jil Sander, often hailed as the “Queen of Minimalism” and the “Queen of Clean” by various fashion publications. Known for her sharp tailoring and clean, understated silhouettes, Sander’s designs are timeless, celebrating the essence of simplicity. Her neutral palettes and meticulous craftsmanship cater to those who appreciate sophistication without excess. Sander’s legacy goes beyond fashion; her ethos is closely tied to German architectural and design principles, valuing functionality and elegance. Described as a pioneer in the “unisex” movement of the 90s, the cyclical nature of fashion and nostalgia sees her amass a new following amongst Gen Z and Millennial consumers. In February 2024, Jil Sander saw sales increase by 17.3 percent year-on-year. Together with Margiela and Diesel, Jil Sander successfully drove growth for the OTB Group, seeing revenues hit approximately EUR 1.9 billion.
The Maximalism Camp: The Bold and The Beautiful
On the opposite side of the fashion spectrum lies the exuberance of Philipp Plein, a designer who epitomises maximalism. Plein’s work is known for its loud, extravagant flair, featuring everything from glittering skull motifs to heavy metallic accents. His runway shows are a spectacle, combining fashion and entertainment in a way that’s unapologetically ostentatious. For Plein, fashion is about embracing excess and making a statement, drawing in those who thrive on attention and luxury. He told the New York Times, “We are not a Jil Sander. We are not a Céline, obviously. We are not attracting this type of client.”
In addition to luxe leather, metallic fabrics, and studded high tops, Plein’s collections feature eye-catching graphics, animal prints, and intricate motifs. These elements, combined with a heavy use of embellishments like studs and rhinestones, add a flamboyant touch to his designs which evoke a sense of rebellion and self-expression. With a penchant for maximalism, Phillip Plein’s designs could be polarising. However, in a 2023 exclusive interview with The New Yorker entitled “How Philipp Plein Became the King of Lowbrow High Fashion”, the publication noted that the Plein brand had a nett global revenue of EUR 215 million, on a par with luxury brands such as Thom Browne.
Escada — another German powerhouse — embraces a similar love for vivid colour and eye-catching designs. Founded in 1978, the brand quickly gained a reputation for its luxurious fabrics and bold prints, catering to confident women who enjoy making a statement. Escada’s take on fashion balances opulence with a playful spirit, creating collections that are vibrant yet elegant. However, in 2020, WWD revealed that only six months after Regent LP, a Los Angeles-based private equity firm, acquired Escada from Megha Mittal, the luxury brand was already facing severe operational challenges. Escada has been burdened by escalating expenses since the takeover, struggling to cover costs such as seamstress payments, UPS delivery fees, and utility bills for its retail locations.
Karl Lagerfeld: The Ultimate Bridge
Standing as a bridge between these contrasting camps is Karl Lagerfeld, whose influence transcended boundaries. As the creative director of Chanel, Fendi, and his own namesake brand, Lagerfeld mastered both restraint and extravagance. His work for Chanel reinvigorated classic French luxury with a fresh, modern twist, often defying the conventions of the Parisian fashion establishment. He was a prolific designer whose sketches and visions turned him into a symbol of innovation, effortlessly navigating between haute couture and ready-to-wear. Lagerfeld’s career transcended his German heritage to leave an indelible mark on the global fashion industry. Despite early French criticism that he wasn’t “couture enough,” Lagerfeld’s relentless creativity and visionary designs proved the doubters wrong, transforming brands like Chanel and Fendi into modern powerhouses and solidifying his global legacy as one of the most influential figures in fashion history.
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When Lagerfeld took the reins of Chanel in 1983, he masterfully preserved the brand’s iconic elements — such as the tweed suits, pearls, and camellias — while reimagining them for a new generation. He introduced bolder colours, playful proportions, and contemporary silhouettes that appealed to younger audiences, making Chanel both timeless and trendy. Lagerfeld also embraced pop culture and collaborated with artists and influencers, bringing Chanel into the contemporary fashion conversation without losing its classic allure. Under Lagerfeld’s creative direction, China emerged as a key sales engine for Chanel, with sales increasing by 11 percent from 2018 to 2019 in constant currency, driven by demand from Asian shoppers.
A Playful Twist: Desigual’s Thomas Meyer
Thomas Meyer, the founder of Desigual, adds yet another layer to the German fashion narrative. Known for his vibrant and “gaudy” approach, Meyer’s brand champions playful, patchwork designs that burst with colour and energy. Although rooted in Spain, Desigual reflects Meyer’s unconventional vision, proving that German-born designers aren’t confined to minimalism or traditional aesthetics. His creations invite joy and spontaneity, challenging fashion norms and celebrating self-expression. In the fiscal year of 2022, the company posted a turnover of EUR 379 million (approximately 2.2 percent more than in 2021), earning EUR 3,04 million, according to a report by FashionUnitedUSA. The company figures also reflected “a consolidation of profitability” after having returned to profits in 2021.
What is “German Design”?
The concept of “German Design” transcends mere aesthetics; it encompasses a philosophy of precision, functionality, and innovation that successfully balances artistic expression with commercial viability. From Thomas Meyer’s meticulously tailored suits to Philipp Plein’s audacious embellishments, German-born designers have left an indelible mark across the fashion spectrum. Whether embracing minimalism or maximalism, their work illustrates the versatility and richness of German design. This legacy continues to inspire new generations, ensuring Germany remains a dynamic force in the fashion world.
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